|| Current Understanding + Research ||

I decided to do some research in order to find out more details about Elizabethan hair in order to later on, be able to create a hairstyle that will somehow reflect the trends that Queen Elizabeth I, had set. I already know a few things such as the fact blonde and red hair was very desirable as well as no eyebrows as that signified intelligence. 

I have read a book called "Women's Headdress and Hairstyles in England from AD 600 to the present day" by Georgine de Courtais. It included a lot of information about the hair for instance, the fact that the hair most of the time was dressed high and was frizzed and curled in order to give the head some importance against the great ruffs and collars which were very popular. Elizabethan period was very significant when it comes to the history of hairdressing because of two reasons. One of the is that during Elizabeth's reign married women wore their hair uncovered wearing simply jewelled ornaments or little net cauls. Example below:

The second notable development in the headwear of this period was the increasing popularity of hats, especially among the middle classes, towards the end of the century. The hats were made out of many different materials because those of felt and beaver had to be imported from France and the Netherlands and were consequently very expensive. 

The centre parted hair waved or rolled smoothly back at the temples which had become fashionable in the 1540's continued to be worn in this manner during the early years of Elizabeth's reign. Frizzing and close curls were also common, with the back hair enclosed in a cap or caul of reticulated goldsmith's work set with pearls and precious stones and lined with coloured silk or cloth of gold or silver.

Picture on the right shows a very popular hairstyle during the first 15 or 20 years. The hair was parted in the centre and rolled smoothly back, probably over pads. 

In the 1570's and 1580's the hair was drawn up from the forehead with out a parting and arranged over larger pads or wire frames to a greater height and width, with a downward curve in the centre front giving a heart-shaped appearance. A similarly shaped hair line was considered beautiful and hairs were probably plucked from the forehead to achieve the required shape where it did not occur naturally. 

Cauls and ornaments were the main decorations at the time (for married and unmarried women). The back hair was in all cases plaited and coiled in a bun. Throughout Elizabeth's reign the ideal hair was considered to be fair or red and preferable naturally curly. This was because of the Queen herself who had red-gold hair of which she was said to be very proud. 

Wigs became fashionable in the last quarter of the century, being first introduced in 1572. Queen Elizabeth had a large collection of about 80 and favoured tightly curled hair which was also red. 

I have also read a book "Fashion in hair, the first five thousand years" by Richard Corson. The book states that Queen Elizabeth who had a large collection of wigs. favoured tightly curled hair, whereas Mary of Scotland, who is believed to have had an even larger collection, preferred the winged or horned style with smooth hair. English ladies of the court also powdered or dyed their hair yellow, to match Elizabeth's natural hair colour. Black hair was not fashionable. Mixtures of alum, black sulphur and honey were sometimes used for bleaching. The hair dyes were often very dangerous and damaging to the hair that it often used to fall out. 

I have also looked at a website www.elizabethan-era.org.uk, which included a lot of information about the Elizabethan Era.

The red hair look was emulated by many of the nobility of the Elizabethan era, as was the fair hair ideal of an ideal woman. An Upper Class Elizabethan woman followed this fashion further and might even dye her hair yellow with a mixture of saffron, cumin seed, celandine and oil. Wigs were also commonly used - like I have mentioned earlier, Queen Elizabeth had a wide variety of wigs and hair pieces and these were often referred to as Periwigs.

Fringes were not in fashion - hairstyle fashion dictated that hair was combed way from the forehead. The hairstyle was usually designed to compliment the style of the hat. Frizzed hair was favoured by the Queen and therefore followed by ladies of the court although straight hair was favoured with a centre parting which especially complimented the french hood.